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Mick Fowler

Mick Fowler

Overview

Mick has been a leading climbing adventurer since the mid 1970s and is hugely respected by his peers.

Mick Fowler was introduced to rock climbing and mountaineering by his father when he was in his early teens. His climbing career has subsequently broadened to the extent that he has been at, or near the top of the field, in a wide variety of climbing disciplines since his early 20s. Mick does all of his climbing during holidays from his career in the UK tax office.

Mick is now a well known figure on the international climbing scene with a reputation as an innovative and inspirational climber. He joined the Berghaus team in 2008 and immediately started putting the latest Extrem gear to the test on the unclimbed west face of Vasuki Parbat in the Himalaya. Since then, he has achieved a first ascent of the north face of Sulamar in China, a new route on Gojung (6310m) – also known as Mugu Chuli – in the Nepalese Himalaya, the first ascent of the Prow of Shiva (6,142m) in the Pangi District of the Indian Himalaya, and the first ascent of Kishtwar Kailash (6,451m), also in the Indian Himalaya.

Mick’s climb on Shiva with Paul Ramsden gained them their second Piolet d’Or, the first British team to achieve that. In the time he has been with Berghaus, Mick has already made a major input into the development of the brand’s most technical products.
 

Climbing Achievements

  • First free ascent of Linden (E6) at Curbar Edge in 1976 - one of the first climbs in the UK to be graded E6
  • First winter ascent of Shield Direct (VII) on Ben Nevis in 1979 - the first Scottish climb to be graded VI (since upgraded to VII)
  • First ascent of a leaking toilet outflow on St Pancras Station in the heart of London (V)
  • First ascent of the White Cliffs of Dover
  • First free ascent of Beachy Head
  • First free ascent and one day ascent of St John's Head, the highest vertical cliff in the UK
  • Widely recognised as the UK's leading adventure rock climber. Numerous new climbs on previously unclimbed cliffs and sea stacks around the country.
  • First ascent of Taullliraju S Buttress in Peru (1982) - a climb which was widely regarded as setting new alpine style standards in the Andes.
  • First ascent of the Golden Pillar of Spantik (7027m) in the Pakistan Himalaya in 1987 - the climb was widely regarded as a new benchmark for alpine style Himalayan ascents.
  • Most recently (2014) the first ascent of the NE Face of Hagshu (6687m) in the Indian Himalaya.
  • Numerous other major Himalayan first ascents in Sichuan, Xingjiang, Russia, Peru, Yukon, Tibet, Pakistan, India etc. over a 35 year period- and ongoing.

Climbing Awards

  • Voted 'Mountaineers' Mountaineer' in the Observer Magazine in 1989.
  • Winner of a Piolet d'Or (mountaineering's Oscar) for the first ascent (with Paul Ramsden) of the North Face of Siguniang (6250m) in Sichuan Province, China in 2002.
  • Winner of the Golden Piton Award (USA) for the Siguniang climb.
  • Included in the 'Top 20 Adventurers' in the Daily Telegraph (UK, 2009)
  • Awarded the King Albert Medal for 'outstanding contribution to mountaineering' (Switzerland, 2012)
  • Winner of a Piolet d'Or for the first ascent (with Paul Ramsden) of the Prow of Shiva (6142m) in the Indian Himalaya in 2013. This award makes Mick and Paul the only pair to have won two such awards.
  • Voted into the Cordon Rouge Club - a GH Mumm Club which 'rewards exceptional people for their extraordinary achievements' (2013)
  • President of the Alpine Club 2011-2013
  • Patron of the BMC 2014 onwards
  • First ascent Sulamar, China
  • First ascent Prow of Shiva, India (Pioet d’Or winner)
  • Ascent of Mugu Chuli, Nepal

Literary Awards

  • Vertical Pleasure shortlisted for Boardman -Tasker Award - 1995
  • Climbing in the Cold - winner of the W H Murray literary prize 2002
  • On Thin Ice shortlisted for Boardman Tasker Award - 2005
  • On Thin Ice - Winner of the John Whyte Award - Banff Mountain Festival (Canada) 2007
  • On Thin Ice - Winner of the Best Book prize at the Bormio Mountain Festival (Italy) 2012